Any journey into Colombia’s ancestral origins leads to the Colombian Massif, a mysterious region of majestic mountains, verdant valleys and volcanoes where enigmatic lost cultures have left behind messages to the modern world amongst the headlands of the country’s most revered rivers.
The echo of these spiritual cultures rings loudly through the region’s astounding archaeological parks where each intricate carving, painted line and carefully placed stone connects the visitor to the hands of mystical artisans whose beliefs have shaped the Andean traditions that underpin the identity of the nation and its inhabitants.
It is a culture that is continued to this day through the many thriving and diverse indigenous groups that inhabit the region, providing a link between Colombia’s Andean origins and the present.
Yet it’s not just the lost civilizations that have left their stamp on the Massif, the region has also been indelibly marked by colonial power, with grandiose European settlements constructed in a attempt to impose another culture on these sacred mountains and it’s this meeting of worlds that makes this little known region so fascinating to explore.
But the Massif is not just about connecting with captivating cultures and academic endeavors, it’s also a natural paradise, boasting some of the best hikes in the country together with fast flowing rivers and lush mountains that are perfect terrain for adventure sports.
One of the main gateways to the region is Popayán, once one of the most important and wealthy cities in the Americas and the religious capital of the region. It’s importance to both colonial authorities and the church was so significant that grand mansions and monuments to its glory were constructed throughout its magnificent whitewashed historic center.
Famed for it’s traditional Easter celebrations, the city is backed by the towering mountains of the Puracé National Park with its smoking volcanic vents, magical paramo landscapes and ethereal thermal springs that fire the nearby thermal baths of Coconuco.
Long before the Spanish settled Popayán, the region was already home to flourishing indigenous cultures, some if which still have homelands in the area today. The mountain town of Silvia is surrounded by stunning peaks and lakes and is the gateway to the homelands of one of Colombia’s most distinctive ethnic groups, the Misak, who descend on the town en masse on market days, turning the otherwise sleepy village into a carnival of color.
Elsewhere in the Massif, the Sibundoy Valley is another area of immense natural beauty where the Kamentsa indigenous group maintain the cultural links between the Amazon and the mountains.
Other indigenous groups of the region have long since disappeared but have left their clues to their stories around the Massif. Within a short distance of each other in this mountain range lie Colombia’s most important archaeological sites, San Agustín and Tierradentro. The former is made up of collections of large stone monuments scattered around impossibly beautiful rolling hills, while the latter features intricately painted underground tombs protected by imposing mountains on all sides.
Little is known about the artisans that crafted these intricate wonders however both these mystical remnants of long lost civilizations are a highlight on any itinerary through the region. Both sites are accessible from the west from Popayan or from the north via Neiva in the department of Huila.
Perhaps the original inhabitants chose the area for its abundance of natural resources. Indeed,
Paramo de la Papas, which straddles both Cauca and Huila departments, is the birth place of Colombias greatest rivers, the Rio Magdalena and Rio Cauca, which have carved fertile valleys that run the length of the country.
The watersheds of both rivers are just kilometers apart in the remarkable Colombian Massif, which gives it’s name to the greater region. It’s possible to hike across the paramo here from one department to the other, or to complete this epic journey on horseback.
The Massif is not just important for its water resources, it’s also one of the bread baskets of the country, with endless varieties of fruits, vegetables and grains sewn in its fertile soils. Market fresh produce can be found in markets and roadside stalls throughout the region and is the basis for the region’s rich cuisine which combines European, indigenous and AfroColombian influences. It’s considered one of the most varied and dynamic cuisines in the country and is showcased annually at the Popayán Gastronomic Festival.
However the region is not all awash with fertile green lands, on the western side of the Massif, down in the Magdalena River valley, one of the continent’s most diminutive deserts, the incongruous Desierto de la Tatacoa is a photographer’s dream of arid, otherworldly landscapes that offers first class stargazing.
More distinct ecosystems can be found in the south of the region where the plateaus of the massif descend down into coffee lands and fertile, humid valleys before rising once again to the grand mountains of Nariño department. These vibrant patchwork mountainsides once formed the northern reaches of the Inca empire and the influence from the legendary cultures of the Andes is still felt today.
Pasto is largest city in far south Colombia and is the heartland of modern Andean culture.
Whether in its typical food, pipe music or fire-warmed peña bars, Pasto is the city that links the rest of Colombia with neighboring nations to the south and is a welcoming place to get a taste of fascinating Andean traditions. The city is also home to one of the country’s most flamboyant
festivals - the Carnival of Blancos y Negros.
Just outside Pasto, the brooding active Volcano Galeras hosts one of Colombia’s highest national parks with spectacular scenery and fresh mountain air, while heading east, the Andes shelter the shimmering waters of the Laguna de la Cocha.
Sharing Pasto’s Andean heritage, Ipiales is one of the coldest cities in country. It’s worth braving its icy winds to visit the country’s most spectacular church, the Santuario de Las Lajas.
This neo-Gothic masterpiece clinging to the side of a deep gorge is popular among pilgrims not just for its marvelous architecture, it’s also famed as a source of numerous miracles.
Perched high in the mountains above the two cities, the town of Túquerres is Colombia’s highest urban settlement and the gateway to the Laguna Verde, a luminous high altitude lake accessed by a wonderfully scenic hike that is one of the Colombian Massif’s most enchanting natural attractions.Another gorgeous alpine lake can be found on the slopes of the active Cumbal Volcano where the Laguna de la Bolsa sits among the delicate moors.
But not all the Massif’s natural wonders require thermal jackets to enjoy. In Putumayo, the Andes make a dramatic descent into the Amazon lowlands beyond in a zone of warm temperatures, lush foliage and powerful rivers that is home to some of Colombia’s most breathtaking nature.
From the frontier town of Mocoa it’s possible to visit thundering waterfalls that rush out of the jungle-covered mountainsides into refreshing swimming holes that offer an accessible taste of Colombia’s jungle flora and fauna without having to travel deep into the wilderness.
Not many travelers reach the southern limits of Colombia’s main mountain range, but those who do are richly rewarded with authentic destinations rich in culture, history, adventure and nature that perfectly blend ancient and modern traditions into a unique experience.
The Colombian Massif is best accessed via flights to the airports of Popayán, Pasto and Neiva, however it’s also easy accessible by road from the gateway cities of Bogotá in the Eastern Colombian Andes, following the Magdalena River to Neiva, and from Cali, in the Colombian Pacific, driving up into the mountains to Popayán.
