The mountains of coffee and flowers

“A region that transforms societies, firmly oriented toward the future without abandoning its traditions. A landscape of majestic mountains scented with coffee, incredibly colorful villages, talkative farmers, exotic birds, and flower-filled valleys. This is the land of the Coffee Cultural Landscape and modern Medellín: the city of Fernando Botero, of the silletera culture, of Colombian gastronomy and fashion.”

Even the most seasoned traveler would find it hard not to marvel at the magnificent coffee-scented mountains of the Colombian Western Cordillera. Dotted with incredibly colorful villages, the enchanting landscapes of the heartland of coffee culture seem straight out of a flower-filled fairy tale.

The stars of this tale are the paisas, the region’s warm inhabitants, known for their work ethic and incredible hospitality. Whether they come from the modern, trendy city of Medellín, one of South America’s most dynamic urban centers, or from a peaceful mountain town, the paisas are very proud of their region and delighted to show its attractions to the visitors they meet.

Located in the heart of a magnificent valley, the city of Medellín makes an ideal starting point for discovering these exceptional lands. Like many parts of the region, the city enjoys a spring-like climate year-round, ideal for soaking up the atmosphere in its parks and outdoor spaces, such as the vast Arví Park or Plaza Botero, where you can admire works by the artist, a native of the region.

Visitors can also head into the surrounding mountains to see the city’s transformation with their own eyes, or ride a funicular to admire this inspiring city from above before enjoying dinner and the country’s liveliest nightlife.

Medellín is known for its magnificent Festival of Flowers, during which the silleteros from the surrounding mountains proudly parade their intricate floral compositions through the city.

The region’s major urban center is exceptional in many ways, but the countryside of the Western Cordillera is just as remarkable. Like a spectacular canvas painted with every shade on the palette, the region resembles a wonderland of perfectly manicured hillsides and lush, flower-carpeted valleys that attract countless birds with exotic plumage. A place where two-tone farmhouses with brightly colored window frames overlook crystal-clear rivers that rush down from the mountains.

Here, nature and agriculture coexist in harmony, largely thanks to the omnipresence of evergreen coffee trees that seem made especially for these mountains.

But here, coffee is much more than a crop: it is a way of life. Coffee is grown in many regions of the country, but in the Western Andes more than anywhere else this crop is of vital importance. The link between the coffee bean and these lands is so strong that UNESCO inscribed the region on the World Heritage List as the Coffee Cultural Landscape.

From skilled pickers who move sure-footed along incredibly steep slopes to hand-pick the cherries, to colorful jeeps loaded with the harvest, to lively cafés on picturesque plazas—the Western Andes live to the rhythm of coffee, and visitors can discover every step of its process, from the tree to the cup.

The coffee axis is made up of the three southernmost departments of the Western Andes, the traditional heart of coffee production in Colombia. The three departmental capitals of this axis—Manizales, Pereira, and Armenia—are ideal starting points for visiting coffee farms. For an even more immersive experience, visit one of the beautiful rural towns in the area, where growers and visitors meet over a cup of hot coffee.

The mountains of the coffee axis were the first to be settled by paisas from Antioquia in search of fertile land. These early settlers brought with them a love of outdoor living, a convivial cuisine, and an unmistakable architecture.

The town of Salento is known for its colorful houses and its ambience typical of the coffee country. It is also the gateway to the unmissable Cocora Valley and its wax palms, the tallest palm trees in the world.

Not far from Filandia, you can admire typical two-story paisa houses with magnificent wooden balconies. This typical architecture is among the best preserved in the region, which is famous for its weavers.

The coffee axis is also the ideal jumping-off point for discovering the magnificent Los Nevados National Natural Park, where you can hike at altitude among glaciers, páramo heathlands, and lakes. The park’s volcanoes warm the waters of half a dozen hot springs located in the foothills, a very tempting option to relax after a long day of activities.

Impressive as it is, this park is just one of the many natural attractions of the Western Andes. With its favorable climate, excellent infrastructure, and incredible vistas, the region is ideal for cycling routes and outdoor activities.

The foothills of these mountains are home to many small nature reserves that rank among the continent’s best birdwatching destinations. The Río Claro Nature Reserve, to the east, centers on a river of perfectly transparent waters—ideal for swimming—that winds through a canyon cloaked in jungle. The charming rural landscapes of the La Miel River, where the Andes meet the Magdalena River, also offer crystal-clear waters.

Another must-do experience is exploring the vast Guatapé reservoir, which faces the charming small town of the same name. Formed by a planned flooding to generate electricity, the reservoir is a labyrinth of peninsulas emerging from the cool mountain waters. For a breathtaking view, climb to the top of the Piedra del Peñol, one of the largest monoliths in the world.

In contrast to Guatapé’s bright colors, the historic colonial town of Santa Fe de Antioquia stands out for its whitewashed walls and stone masonry. The first settlement in the region, the town has preserved its original splendor and is home to fascinating museums as well as the emblematic Puente del Occidente over the Cauca River, the most impressive suspension bridge in the country.

But the title of the region’s most charming town perhaps goes to Jardín, in the south of the department of Antioquia. Nestled amid imposing mountains, it boasts a wonderful square of vibrant colors that stands in striking contrast to its immense gray-stone church. Around the town lies one of the region’s most spectacular landscapes—caves, waterfalls, rivers, and coffee plantations—which you can also explore from the neighboring towns of Jeríco and Tamesis.

With their pioneering modern cities, warm people, rich culture, and splendid mountain scenery, the Western Andes are an ideal destination for every kind of trip—whether you want to relax amid natural landscapes, enjoy local gastronomy over a glass of wine, or live highly caffeinated adventures at altitude.

The main gateway to the region is Medellín’s international airport, but the airports of Pereira and Armenia also offer some international flights, and Manizales provides an air link to Bogotá.

By road, the southern tip of the region lies only three hours from the city of Cali; Medellín and the towns of the coffee axis are connected to Bogotá, in the Colombian Eastern Cordillera, by fully passable mountain roads. Two scenic routes to the Colombian Caribbean also depart from Medellín.