Inzá

Hidden among the folds of the magnificent mountain peaks on the outskirts of the small town of Inza lies one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Colombia, the underground tombs of Tierradentro.

Mysterious and unconventional, this collection of pre-Hispanic mausoleums is what remains of an enigmatic culture lost long ago. However, it is not heavily visited. You can find it in the heart of the Colombian Massif, an incredible place to connect with the Indiana Jones within you.

The mere act of descending narrow stone stairs into dark underground chambers is an extraordinary journey of discovery that connects visitors to the mystical world of the original inhabitants of these sacred mountains. In these depths, you can study the intricate ancient decorations with just a flicker of your flashlight.

In addition to the tombs, the area is also dotted with large pre-Columbian statues similar to those found in another archaeological wonder of the region, San Agustín. The area surrounding Tierradentro also holds some of the most alluring nature of the Colombian Massif, perfect for relaxing hikes, horseback rides, and birdwatching.

Attractions and Experiences

Tierradentro Archaeological Park

Isolated and seemingly disconnected from the surrounding world, the Tierradentro Archaeological Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It contains 162 underground tombs and more than 500 carved statues, making it a captivating window into the mystical original inhabitants of the Colombian Massif. The park extends over the impressive slopes of the mountains surrounding the small village of San Andrés de Pisimbalá and includes four main collections of tombs, a collection of statues, and two fascinating museums.

It’s best to dedicate at least a couple of days to the park to enjoy the views at a relaxed pace. You can start at the Tierradentro Archaeological Museum, located near the park office. There, you’ll get information about the culture behind the tombs. Then, head up the mountain to Alto de La Segovia, the most spectacular site in the complex, thanks to its 25 richly painted tombs open to visitors.

If you keep climbing the mountain, you’ll reach El Duende, which has five more tombs to visit, including a very unusual rectangular tomb said to represent a house. Meanwhile, to the north, San Andrés offers seven tombs with walls featuring bright red and black geometric patterns. Higher up the mountain from San Andrés is El Tablón, a plateau with panoramic views that houses a collection of stone-carved statues up to two meters tall.

Located on an imposing mountain range that offers absolutely breathtaking views, El Aguacate is the largest and most remote collection of tombs. Here, you can visit up to 42 different structures. Reaching El Aguacate requires quite a bit of walking, so many visitors save this part of the tour for the second day.

Another option is to rent horses in San Andrés de Pisimbalá and explore the region with less effort.

Archaeological Site

San Andrés de Pisimbalá Church

This recently restored church stands on a hill overlooking the village of San Andrés de Pisimbalá. It is an 18th-century whitewashed adobe construction with a thatched roof. It is one of the most charming parish chapels in the Colombian Massif. The contrast between its white walls and the lush green slopes around it makes it one of the most photographed temples in the region.

Religion

Practical Details

Accommodation

Right next to the park entrance, there’s a quiet rural road where you’ll find some very rustic budget guesthouses and a comfortable community-run hotel. Another option is to go up the hill to the village of San Andrés de Pisimbalá, where there are a couple of affordable and cozy guesthouses.

Getting There

The isolated location of Tierradentro is a big part of its charm: it’s never crowded, and visitors often end up exploring the site on their own. However, it also means that getting there can feel like an adventurous mission. You can reach the site by car from Popayán through the mountains on the western side of the Colombian Massif. This journey takes approximately three hours. Another option is to go via Neiva, located along the Magdalena River, four hours to the east. Both cities have airports with direct flights to Bogotá.

Useful Tip

When exploring the tombs, it’s a good idea to bring a flashlight, since while some structures have electric lighting, many of the more remote ones are completely dark inside.