Mompox

Colombia has many towns frozen in time, but the sunny Santa Cruz de Mompox, on the banks of the languid Magdalena River, completely outshines overrated modernity.

This riverside of colonial mansions and Andalusian-style churches resembles one of the many colorful towns depicted in the novels of Gabriel García Márquez, the country's most prominent writer.

It’s no coincidence that Mompox and its beauty have inspired countless artists, whether writers, poets, or photographers. The mystique exuded by this place will make you explore it with the expectation of finding new wonders around every corner.

Despite its current vibe, Mompox was not always a sleepy town. In the past, it was one of the country’s most important cities and a mandatory stop on river expeditions connecting the interior with Cartagena; however, changes in the Magdalena’s course gradually isolated it, transforming it into the languid place it is today.

Nevertheless, this isolation prevented progress from erasing this colonial hub, preserving the characteristics it had centuries ago.

High daytime temperatures keep people indoors, leaving the streets deserted and turning them into a scene worthy of photographing. The river breeze sweeps through the city at sunset, when Mompox residents emerge from their anachronistic homes and sit on the sidewalks to chat with neighbors, a timeless custom that remains unchanged.

Sights and attractions

Churches of Mompox

Among the city’s most notable sights are a handful of colonial-era churches, which look stunning at any time of day.

If you plan an itinerary to visit them, you’ll end up exploring nearly all the streets, as they form an axis connecting various points of the urban center. The main ones are the Iglesia de Santa Bárbara, located on the riverbank, with its Hispano-Moorish baroque tower and golden altars; the Convento de San Francisco, dating back to the 16th century; and the fabulous Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción.

Ciénaga de Pijiño

An alternative to cope with the city’s sultry climate is to visit the nearby Ciénaga de Pijiño, whose refreshing wetlands can be explored by canoe. This part of the Mompox depression is home to a wide variety of waterfowl and many reptiles. The narrow channels you’ll navigate were shaped by the Zenú pre-Hispanic community to expand the irrigation network across this fertile territory. Upon returning, the sunset over the river will surely leave you breathless.

Mompox filigree

Through this technique, passed down from generation to generation since colonial times, combining native and European elements.

Mompox’s goldsmiths craft the finest gold and silver pieces in the entire region. You can witness these artists at work and purchase their exquisite jewelry directly from any of the city’s workshops.

Holy Week in Mompox

Given its traditionalist nature, it’s no surprise that religious festivities in Mompox are lavish. Of all, the most important is undoubtedly the Easter celebration. These iconic city festivities date back 500 years to the first Holy Week celebrated by Spanish newcomers. The centerpiece of the festivities is the candlelit and flower-filled processions in which Mompox residents march through the six churches and the chapel.

Even if you visit at another time of year, you can sense the religious devotion that characterizes this city at the Museo de Arte Religioso, which displays over 300 gold and silver pieces.

Mompox International Jazz Festival

One of the most sophisticated musical events in the Colombian Caribbean takes place in the colonial setting of this charming city: the Mompox Jazz Festival. Artists from around the world gather there every October to perform concerts you shouldn’t miss.

Practical details

Accommodation

Mompox offers many accommodations that provide an immersive experience in the colonial atmosphere, especially the exclusive hotels established in restored mansions in the historic center. There are also more budget-friendly hotels in the newer part of the city, which, though a bit farther, allow you to reach the main attractions on foot.

Getting there

The recent inauguration of a large infrastructure bridge over the Magdalena River has greatly facilitated access to Mompox. You can reach it from Cartagena, which has a busy international airport, in just five hours.

Mompox also has a small regional airport with three weekly flights to Cartagena and two to Medellín.

Practical tip

Given the high temperatures, don’t forget to travel to Mompox with light clothing and a hat to protect yourself during excursions.