The kashaa sounds echo in the air. A man, wearing only a loincloth (guayuco), is chased to the frantic rhythm of the music by women dressed in colorful and striking “mantas” (a handmade dress). This is the Yonna, the traditional dance of the Wayuu (the largest Indigenous community in Colombia and Venezuela), which you can experience in the city of Riohacha, the capital of La Guajira department.  

You, too, can have the privilege of living alongside the Wayuu by visiting a ranchería, a term used to describe communities made up of a cluster of houses located in a specific area, usually inhabited by members of the same family. During your visit, you’ll be welcomed by a community that will share its ancestral wisdom with you—customs, myths, rituals, and legends that have been passed down through generations. 

Listen carefully and respectfully, as you’ll be connecting with a cultural legacy that is one of this Indigenous community's most treasured assets.

Yonna, traditional Wayuu dance, Colombia.
Photo from the Guajira Mundo travel agency website.

 

This way, the Wayuu themselves will share their culture with you. They’ll tell you, for example, about their matriarchal family structure, where children inherit their caste from their mother, and explain the “Sutapaulu,” a puberty ritual in which girls are secluded for six months to a year. During this time, they learn weaving techniques and the value of women within the community. They’ll also tell you the Wayuu creation myth, which says that Juya, ‘The Great Creator Spirit’ and lord of the rains, impregnated Ema, the Mother Earth, giving birth to the Wayuu people. 

Your visit to a ranchería, which can be organized through numerous tourism companies, typically includes a traditional welcome drink, a performance of the Yonna, and a taste of local dishes such as friche, a goat meat specialty. Finally, you can admire and purchase crafts made by the Wayuu, such as mochilas (bags), mantas, chinchorros (hammocks), hats, and other items renowned for their beauty and vibrant colors.  

The authenticity of Wayuu crafts

Carmen María González, Wayuu artisan, Colombia.
Photo from the Artesanías de Colombia website.

 

Keep in mind that Wayuu crafts are far more than decorative objects—they are true expressions of cultural identity, ancestral wisdom, and a deep connection to the land. Each piece, woven by the hands of Wayuu women, tells a story passed down through generations and reflects the ancestral knowledge this community has preserved over time. 

The famous Wayuu mochilas, known for their vibrant colors and complex geometric patterns, are a clear example of this community's artisanal mastery. Each mochila can take several weeks to weave, and every design has symbolic significance, speaking to the Wayuu’s worldview. The vivid colors and intricate details not only represent the desert’s beauty but also the interconnectedness between the spiritual and earthly realms. 

In addition to mochilas, the Wayuu are known for crafting hammocks, chinchorros, hats, mantas, and accessories, all adorned with traditional motifs. These pieces are not merely utilitarian items; they are gifted during significant moments, such as rituals or celebrations. Chinchorros, for example, are made with special techniques for durability and comfort, ideal for La Guajira’s warm climate. Mantas, on the other hand, are the traditional attire for Wayuu women, with designs varying based on the occasion and social status.  

Practical tips for your visit

Evening at a ranchería, La Guajira, Colombia.
Photo from the Solera Travels website.

 

If you’re interested in visiting a ranchería and experiencing this unique adventure, here are some useful details:

  • How to get there: Riohacha is the nearest city, accessible by plane from Bogotá or Medellín. From Riohacha, organized tours can take you directly to the rancherías.
  • Best time to visit: La Guajira is an arid region with high temperatures year-round, averaging between 28°C and 35°C (82°F to 95°F). You can visit a Wayuu ranchería at any time of the year.
  • What to bring: the sun in La Guajira can be intense, so it’s advisable to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, light cotton clothing, and a hat. Carrying potable water to stay hydrated during your visit is also a good idea.
  • Respect local customs: the Wayuu have a rich cultural tradition, and it’s important to show respect. For example, if you want to take photos, it’s recommended to ask for permission first.
  • Organized tours: Several companies offer tours that include transportation from Riohacha, local guides, Wayuu language translation, and immersive experiences. Be sure to choose a tour operator that promotes sustainable tourism and respects Indigenous communities. It’s recommended to arrange your tour in advance.  

Visiting a Wayuu ranchería is not just an opportunity to learn about an ancestral culture; it is a way to connect with the essence of a people that has survived for centuries in harmony with their traditions. Explore their customs, savor their cuisine, and take home a piece of craftsmanship as a testament to your journey. 

Don’t just visit La Guajira, experience its ancestral soul and return home with memories as vibrant as the Wayuu bags you’ll take with you. A cultural and human adventure awaits in this unique corner of Colombia.

 

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Birdwatching in the Greater Colombian Caribbean: A Paradise for Observers