In the depths of the mountainous landscapes of the department of Santander, in the Eastern Andes of Colombia, there is a culinary delight that has captivated palates for centuries: the large ant. More than just a dish, this ant is a symbol of the rich culinary culture of the region, a tradition deeply rooted in the history and identity of its people.
A delicacy that requires hard work
The journey begins in the fields of the municipalities of San Gil, Curití, and Barichara, the main centers for producing this ant. There, farmers wake up before the sun rises and head towards the ant nests, where the animals are collected, known for their analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties. Sometimes, they wait for the sun to rise, so that with the warmer weather, the ants are encouraged to come out.
The ants must be prepared before being sold: first, they are immersed in water, their wings and heads are removed, they are soaked in water and salt for a while, and then they are fried with a little oil, taking advantage of the fact that the animal releases its own fat. Finally, the ants are packed and sold in stores or streets of the municipalities.
For many people, today this work is inherited as a tradition through which their families have generated economic resources. However, it is known that the Guanes, an indigenous people who inhabited part of the department of Santander and whose descendants still exist, used to take care of and feed the ants during the nine months they hid underground. By April and May, the ants were hunted by the community as part of their sustenance.
A symbol of Santander's identity
It is said that the Guanes cultivated and collected large ants during the rainy season when they emerge from their nests in large numbers. These ants were a delicacy highly appreciated for their nutritional content and distinctive flavor. They were used in courtship rituals to win over the desired maiden.
The sense of identity and tradition with the large ant can be seen in local festivals and events, where it is part of the culinary tasting. Additionally, you can find sculptures of this animal in different locations: one facing the Fonce River at the El Gallineral Park, another one made of stone in Barichara, and the monument to the ant in Bucaramanga.
In an effort to prevent its disappearance and promote its protection as a representative symbol of the department, in 2023 the first “Real Large Ant Festival” was held. Additionally, a study on its history and tradition was compiled, promoted by the San Gil Institute of Culture and Tourism, which you can find here.
The large ant is not only a delicious food but also a symbol of the rich cultural and natural heritage of Santander. By exploring destinations like Barichara, you are discovering some of the most beautiful places in the country with ancestral traditions that extend to the pleasures of the table. Be sure to try this and more Colombian dishes that will delight your palate.
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